Ok, this seems really stupid. A bit of swell finally started to hit on Sat, Feb 7, 2009. It had been raining for a few days and it finally tapered off. The conditions were nice: semi overcast, glassy at 3PM, and some chunky NW coming in, making for some nice rights. So, into the post-rain, feces and hepatitis-laden sewage. I don't care, I'm sick of waiting for something to surf on. I think it was mid-tide and flooding. It was a bit walled. Super warm water for some odd reason.
wave 1: take off right and it held up pretty well. nice size wall.
wave 2: take off left, nice size wall, but kind of open. My better sense said to pull out, but I figured a good whomping will be good for me. So, it caved on me, no issue. Done that 1001 times in our typically closed-out beach break. Went underwater for a bit with the wave suction. Then 2-3 seconds go by and my board smacks me like a friggen torpedo in my lower left back, right near my kidney. I have no idea what part of my board hit me. I got very dizzy and nauseous. I just kind of curled up under water, figuring my entrails (guts) were pouring into my wet suit. After some thought, I figured I should doggie paddle in and peel off my suit to have a look. I figured it would be a blood bath and that my suit is serving to hold me together. Got on the sand, rolled my suit down, and YES!, no blood. Anyway, 5 hours later I went to the ER for an Xray since the pain was only getting worse. Sure enough, my 6th rib is cracked, but not compound, so no risk of any punctures.
Well, nearly 2 weeks later and this is still the most long-lasting painful injury I've experienced. I can't do any basic thing...cough, breath deep, sneeze, get up after sleep...without major pain. I take Codone before sleeping (though it seems to stimulate my mind and keeps me awake). The only similar pain I've experienced several times is shoulder dislocation.
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